Postcard from Kyoto and Osaka

Where to stay, shop, explore, and eat.

If it seems like everyone you know has either been to or is planning to go to Japan, you’re not exactly wrong. 2024 was a record year for tourism in Japan, with a staggering 36.87 million international visitors and it looks like 2025 is shaping up to be equally as busy. A few factors play into this surge in popularity, with the biggest being a weak yen. Of course, the favorable currency exchange also happens to fall during a year when Osaka hosts the World Expo. The six-month affair with sweeping pavilions highlights cultural exchange and innovation from around the globe and organizers estimate nearly 28 million will cross the grounds by the time it ends in October. 

But even if you’re not there to check out the fair, Osaka and Kyoto remain perennially popular cities to explore. From eating your way through Japan’s kitchen to transporting yourself through time to a pre-industrialized Japan, it can seem as if there’s not enough time to see, taste, and experience everything on your list. Overwhelmed? Let us help with this guide. Consider it a sweeping overview to inform your visit and far from an exhaustive itinerary. After all, the best places are usually ones you discover upon accident.

STAY

Compared to Tokyo, Osaka is a smaller city with most of the tourist attractions a short distance by cab or train from the center of town. While you might be tempted to stay in the heart of the activity, a better plan is to choose a hotel within walking distance. Opt for the W Osaka, which is located on Midosuji Boulevard, the main thoroughfare. The sweeping black glass tower, designed by Tadao Ando, is seemingly modern but reflects a philosophy that dates back to the Edo era. At that time the shogunate prohibited excessive luxury, leading local merchants to wear what appeared to be modest and quiet on the exterior but revealed a playful design on the interior. The same can be said of this hotel, with the sleek doors opening to reveal a riot of color from the lobby to the rooms. 

With 337 spacious rooms that offer expansive views of the city, each features a design scheme that mixes clean lines with neon light accents — a nod to Dotonburi nearby. While you’re probably out exploring the city most of the day, should you want to stay close to home the W offers plenty of food and drink. The breakfast buffet with both Japanese and Western dishes is a strong start to your morning while afternoon tea service in the Living Room is a perfect pick me up. Come dinner, choose from teppanyaki, sushi, or French-inspired fare. And of course, to end the evening, a nightcap at the bar is a must, especially with the DJ spinning.

Following the hubbub of Osaka, head over to Kyoto, a decidedly calmer city with scenic temples and historic sites. Despite its serene energy, it’s deceptively large, especially if you want to see everything on your list. The smartest way to maximize your stay without overexerting yourself is to actually split your time among hotels. Begin with the Ritz Carlton Kyoto for a few nights, With Its prime location along the Kamogawa River, the Gion area as well as the buzzy Pontocho are a mere 20 minute walk or five minute cab ride away. Upon walking in you’ll notice its exterior, designed to be in harmony with the surrounding area and inspired by a traditional machiya, a wooden Japanese townhouse. A two-story waterfall is in the heart of the property, serving as the soundtrack with its soothing rushing waters. 135 spacious guest rooms and suites offer views of the river, Higashiyama Mountains, or their zen gardens. As for the interiors created by Peter Remedios of Remedios Design Studio, you’ll notice the Shippo design which decorates the walls of the entrance as well as guest room doors — it’s a lucky pattern that brings hope for harmony, wealth and prosperity.

Start your morning off with breakfast downstairs as the Japanese offering is not to be missed. Order that the night before and marvel at the multiple little dishes that dot the tray. For those wanting Western fare, it’s equally as delicious so split it with your companion and have the best of both worlds. Lastly, for those with a sweet tooth, Pierre Hermé has an outpost in the lobby as well as an afternoon tea.

Once you’ve ticked Gion, Fushimi Inari, and Pontocho off your list, make your way over to the famed Arashiyama bamboo forest and its surrounding area. Suiran, a former imperial villa, should serve as your home base. Situated along the banks of the Hozu river, it’s a tranquil escape from the busy main streets. Upon entry you pass through a Japanese-style gate and find yourself walking through a sweeping garden before making your way into the lobby. Low-slung and topped mukuri-style tiled roofs, the architecture seamlessly blends into the surrounding natural features. This hotel is in the style of a ryokan, a traditional Japanese guest house, which means the doors slide open and you’re expected to take your shoes off upon entry. A third of the guest rooms also have terraces and private outdoor hot-spring baths, making a godsend for tired legs.

Arashiyama is buzzing during the day but decidedly quieter come sunset. Take advantage of the peaceful later hours by kicking off your evening with happy hour drinks at Cafe Hassui. The complimentary wines, sakes, and light snacks are best enjoyed watching the sunset on the river. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, there are two incredible on site restaurants. Kyo-Suiran serves French-Japanese fare in a room that evokes Meiji-era decor while Teppanyaki Kanzan, like its name implies, offers teppanyaki. And of course, no morning is complete without their Japanese breakfast.

TO DO

Soak in Centuries of Culture

There is no shortage of UNESCO world heritage sites and temples between Osaka and Kyoto. For the former, a visit to Osaka Castle is a must, especially for Shogun fans while Namba Yasaka Jinja is also worth a short stop to admire its impressive lion’s head stage. As for Kyoto, with over 1600 shrines and temples as well as imperial residences and historical locales, it’s impossible to see it all. First-timers should tick off the big ones: Fushimi Inari, Kinkaku-ji, Arashiayma bamboo forest, and of course, Gion also known as the Geisha district. For those heading to Arashiyama bamboo forest add nearby Saihōji to your list. The moss temple requires a reservation but is well worth it to experience the stunning, green covered grounds.

Take a Day Trip 

Two surrounding areas worth a quick stop are Uji and Nara. Fans of matcha will want to head to the former as it’s one of the first places in Japan to cultivate tea. Poke around the shops selling tins or if you’re looking to deep dive arrange a farm tour as well as a formal tea ceremony experience. And while you’re in Uji, stop by Byodo-in, a Buddhist temple built in 998. As for Nara? Deer are the stars there so grab some cookies, take a bow and watch the sacred animals bow back for their treats.

Go Designer Vintage Shopping 

Tokyo might be a haven for vintage shopping but don’t count Osaka and Kyoto out either. The selection is equally as extensive, if not slightly better by virtue of having fewer visitors rifling through the racks. Plus, pricing tends to be less expensive. Chains like Kindal, 2nd Street, Ragtag, and Komehyo are all worth browsing for everything from Chanel to Comme des Garçons while the likes of Hedy and ALLU in Osaka and Three Star and Bring also offer curated selections of the same designers.

Deep Dive Into the Area’s Wares

Love incense, matcha, and ceramics? All three make for wonderful souvenirs and happen Kyoto’s finest products. For incense, stop by Shoyeido, which was established in 1705 and is one of the oldest makers in Japan while Scentscape, located in Gion, makes incredible modern day scents like bergamot yuzu. Speaking of Gion, while you’re there stop off at Chawanzaka, a street devoted to both vintage and modern day ceramics. And finally, for matcha, Ippodo and Marukyu Koyamaen are both solid choices, though they do tend to sell out if you don’t get there early.

DINE

It’s impossible to accurately cover all of the restaurants in Osaka and Kyoto, especially when you consider that Osaka is considered Japan’s kitchen while Kyoto is best known for their multi-course seasonal kaiseki meals. Like the rest of Japan, reservations are generally required but not all places take them. Plan out a few of your meals in advance and use this list as a rough guide but also leave plenty of time for spontaneity too.

Dotonbori

No visit to Osaka is complete without visiting this area best known for its larger than life signs and street food. Bring plenty of cash and as many dining companions as you can so that you’re able to sample everything to your heart’s desire. Takoyaki, grilled balls of batter filled with diced octopus that are covered with everything from mayo to a sweet soy glaze, are a must as are gyoza, grilled wagyu, and crab legs. For dessert, melon pan, a pillowy soft bun topped with a crackly crust that’s filled with ice cream, will satisfy any sweet tooth.

Maruyoshi Sushi

Buttery scallops and tuna for breakfast? Yes, please! Stop off at Osaka’s Kuromon Market for an early morning treat at Maruyoshi Sushi. Lines can be long but it’s well worth it for their kaisen don, which comes brimming with fresh seafood.

Okonomiyaki Mizuno

No visit to Osaka would be complete without okonomiyaki, a savory pancake grilled in front of you and stuffed with everything from cabbage to pork to seafood. Head to Okonomiyaki Mizuno, a Michelin Bib Gourmand winning restaurant known for yamaimo-yaki (made with grated yam) and modan-yaki (a modern style of dish). The 12-seater can get busy and reservations aren’t possible so be prepared to wait.

Rokkakutei

The other official Osaka dish to try? Kushikatsu, deep fried skewers of meat, seafood, and vegetables served with an array of dipping sauces. Rokkakutei offers an elevated take on the dish, omakase style. From maitake mushroom to delicate shrimp to buttery beef, the Michelin-rated restaurant is the perfect way to end your evening. One note: the gluten-free bread is not to be missed. Made with rice flour, it’s perfectly bouncy and chewy.

Pontocho

Located on western bank of the Kamogawa River, these narrow alleyways are among the five Geisha districts in Kyoto and have a history as an entertainment district that date back to the Edo period. Nowadays the lantern-lined streets are filled with shops, restaurants, and bars. Head there in the evening for a drink at Bee’s Knees, on the 50 Best Bars in Asia list, before dinner at Yuzugen Pontocho, known for their yuzu hotpot. Or, simply wander around and see what piques your interest — just note that most of these places are on the small side and best for smaller groups.

Shoraian

While at Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, make a reservation at Shoraian, a tofu kaiseki restaurant nestled in the heart of the woods. To get there, take the scenic route along the river before climbing up a series of stone steps to enter. Inside, the light filled room with wide windows offers sweeping views. Take a seat on the floor cushions and enjoy a preset meal that celebrates the delicacy of tofu in all of its iterations. And yes, there is meat in many of the courses but vegetarians get their own special menu as well.

Hyotei

For a truly special meal, head to Hyotei. The three Michelin starred restaurant located at the entrance to Nanzen-ji Temple is one of the oldest in Kyoto. Enter via stone pathways covered in moss and find yourself in a private room for the duration of your multi-course meal. Among the dishes not to be missed is their famous soft boiled eggs, which has been served every day during its 400 year history and described to be the most perfect version of an egg you could possibly eat.

Monk

Pizza….in Japan? No, your eyes aren’t deceiving you. Yoshihiro Imai’s restaurant, Monk, located by the famous Philosopher’s Path is known for using locally grown and foraged ingredients for a true farm to table experience. With daily-changing five- and seven-course omakase menus, you’ll find everything from a classic Margherita to saba pizza to charred sashimi to elegantly roasted vegetables. As always, reservations go quick so you’ll need to set alarms to get a coveted seat.

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